The Sharp End

We put together a survey in early February so we could get to know our listeners better. We want to know who you are and what you think of the show. Over 400 people filled out this survey and we gathered some good information. Listen in as Dustin from Podboarder and Ashley talk about the results and read some of the comments from fans. By filling out the February survey, you entered to win 1 of 3 prizes. 1. One year American Alpine Membership 2. Pair of Rocky Talkies 3. Aceso Hemp Prize Pack This episode is directed by Ashley Saupe and produced by Dustin at Podboarder. Thanks to the American Alpine Club, Rocky Talkies and Aceso for hooking up my listeners with awesome prizes. Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND If you find value in this show, please consider becoming a Patreon at patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! www.thesharpendpodcast.com

A fumarole is an opening in the earth which emits steam and gases such as carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, hydrogen chloride, and hydrogen sulfide. The steam forms when superheated water boils as its pressure drops when it emerges from the ground. These holes can be very dangerous. Listen to episode 61 as Scott tells Ashley about his fall into a fumarole during a solo ski mo attempt on Mt Hood in Oregon. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, COROS and Desert Mountain Medicine. Win a prize package from our sponsors by taking our listener survey at: https://sharpend.typeform.com/to/F61rWth9 Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND If you find value in this show, please consider becoming a Patreon at patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! www.thesharpendpodcast.com

After five consecutive years of producing the Sharp End Podcast, Steve Smith at Experiential Consulting turns the tables on podcast creator Ashley Saupe and interviews her! Listen as Ashley and Steve talk about a few incidents she's had in the backcountry, how she's managed them and why she is inspired to continue producing this podcast for her listeners. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Desert Mountain Medicine, Experiential Consulting, and Aceso Hemp. Did you know that January is National CBD Month? I’ve spent some time learning more about CBD and how to integrate into my daily life thanks to some friends at Aceso Hemp. Aceso uses the restorative power of plants to create highly targeted products, with lines that support Wellness, Calming, and Soothing. I’ve been using their topical balms (they have heat, cool, and soothing) for aches and injuries and the soothing blend of essential oils and hemp have really helped alleviate the

On the morning of September 5, Annie Weinmann and her climbing partner started up the North Chimney, a broad 500-foot slot that leads climbers to the Diamond, Colorado's premier alpine wall. Annie had done the North Chimney before and was comfortable climbing the easy terrain unroped and in approach shoes. But when she got slightly off-route, a foot slip led to a terrible tumble. In Episode 39 of the Sharp End, Annie tells Ashley what happened and how she survived a 200-foot fall, plus some fascinating insight into the circumstances that brought her to this point. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Tyler Willis and a friend were descending from a successful ascent of Mt. Owen in Grand Teton National Park. It was late in the day when they reached the Teton Glacier, which they had crossed without a problem early that morning. Just a few steps later, Tyler plunged into a hidden crevasse, an extremely rare accident for the Tetons. By the time climbers pulled him to the surface, he was hypothermic, and it wasn't until the next day that rangers could helicopter him to safety. Hear all about it in Episode 58 of the Sharp End. Visit Sharpendpodcast.com to find video footage from the rescue and information on recognizing and treating hypothermia. The Sharp End podcast is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine, Suunto, and Minus33. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Brian Vines was a high school senior and a budding climber in the 1990s when he and some friends went to Sand Rock, Alabama, for a day of top-roping. On their last climb, a simple mistake led to a damaging ground fall. More than two decades later, Brian and Ashley look back at that day in Episode 57 of the Sharp End. After many years away from the sport, Brian has returned to climbing, and his 14-year-old son, J.T., now leads many of their climbs. But the lessons from that day at Sand Rock still guide their every move. The Sharp End Podcast is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain, Suunto, Minus33, and Ski Babes. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Scott Reed and a friend trekked more than five miles into the mountains west of Denver to attempt a long, moderate ice climb during the short days of late December. At an elevation around 12,000 feet, they climbed several pitches and then, in high wind, decided to bail back down the route. Toward the bottom, Scott, age 23 at the time, pondered whether or not to rappel from just one small piece of protection and save a little money. As it turned out, his decision would be much more costly than he imagined. In Episode 56 of the Sharp End, Scott speaks with Ashley about his long fall, the incredible self-rescue back to their car, and the lessons he learned (including the value of satellite communication devices on remote climbs). The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine, Suunto, and Minus33. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Summit day on Mt. Rainier had just begun. Less than an hour out of high camp, carefully leading her team up a well-trodden boot track, Rita Hansen suddenly plunged into a crevasse. After falling more than 60 feet, she was completely buried by falling ice and snow. Amazingly, Rita was basically unharmed. But she couldn’t move. In episode 55 of the Sharp End, Rita shares the details of her 2007 accident and rescue, a story she has never told publicly before. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Four friends from all over the United States met in eastern Utah in February 2020 to go canyoneering. They were all experienced canyoneers and had done trips together before. As they exited Angel Cove Canyon by the final rappel of the day, Fiona, 33, was the last person down. In Episode 54 of the Sharp End, Fiona's three companions describe what went wrong with her rappel and share some stories about their remarkable friend. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Three friends set out for a popular waterfall hike on the north shore of Kauai in late December. A high-surf warning had been issued, but the hikers didn't expect their route to take them close to the beach. Plans change, however, and accidents sometimes sneak up on you. In Episode 53 of the Sharp End, Alexandra Williams tells Ashley how a series of events led them into a very dangerous situation. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional annual support from Desert Mountain Medicine. This episode is also supported by Mystery Ranch. The Sharp End podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Denali mountaineering ranger and flight nurse Dave Weber returns to the Sharp End to talk COVID-19 and the issues related to outdoor recreation, first response to accidents, and staying sane during a tough stretch for outdoor adventurers. Don't forget to enter Mammut's big gear giveaway this month. Head to https://americanalpineclub.org/sharp-end-podcast to sign up. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine. Support for this episode also was provided by Coros. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Hari Mix, a very experienced mountaineer, had planned a rare and difficult winter-season traverse of the White Mountains, the high, remote range separating California from Nevada. He had studied the weather forecasts carefully and packed the right gear, but when an intense storm struck the crest of the ridge, Hari's challenging outing became a struggle for survival. Learn what happened in episode 51 of the Sharp End! The Sharp End Podcast is sponsored by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Climbing is a big part of Meg Atteberry and John Luebbers' life together. John even proposed to Meg partway up a climb. So, what happened when the Colorado couple experienced a climbing accident together? In Episode 50 of the Sharp End, Ashley talks with Meg and John about their accident and how it affected both their climbing and their relationship. Don't worry, it ends well! The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine. This episode also was supported by Boulder Denim. The Sharp End podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In this special live-audience recording of the Sharp End, Alaska climbing legend Charlie Sassara recalls an epic survival story and rescue from 2002. Sassara's climbing partner, Jack Tackle, was clobbered by rockfall, knocked unconscious, and broke his back high on the unclimbed north face of Mt. Augusta. Tackle regained consciousness and together they determined there was only one course of action: Sassara had to leave his partner tied to a tiny ledge, rappel off the mountain, and try to get help. Survival was far from assured...for either man. This heartfelt episode was recorded in front of a large audience at Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking in Anchorage in late December, at an event put on by the Alaska Section of the American Alpine Club. There's a Q&A session with the audience at the end. A note for listeners: The audio from this live recording has various stage and audience noise as well as occasional profanity. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional sponsorship for this episode from K

On May 27, 2019, three experienced canyoneers—Becca, Eileen, and Justin—were descending the Middle Fork of Lytle Creek in California's San Bernadino Mountains. As the group completed the third rappel in the canyon, Becca moved through flowing water toward the anchor for the fourth rappel. Suddenly she slipped and disappeared over the edge of a towering waterfall. In Episode 48 of the Sharp End, Ashley speaks with all three of the canyoneers about this accident and how Becca survived, despite critical injuries and hypothermia at the bottom of a deep canyon. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support for this episode from Kavu. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Carbon monoxide, an odorless, colorless, and poisonous gas, can build up to dangerous levels inside a tent during or after cooking with a stove. Sharp End hostess Ashley Saupe had a personal scare with CO poisoning, and in Episode 47 she discusses her own experience and other people's close calls with Denali mountaineering ranger Dave Weber. This episode is packed with essential information for winter mountaineers or anyone else who camps in snowy conditions. Don't miss it! Photo by Greg Stafford (https://www.gregstaffordphotography.com). The Sharp End podcast is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This episode was also sponsored by Kavu. The Sharp End is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Margie Root and her husband were attempting the classic Culp-Bossier Route up the steep north face of Colorado's Hallett Peak. When Margie broke a hold on the run-out fifth pitch, she fell at least 50 or 60 feet and sustained several injuries. Luckily, a group of good friends, including Leslie Gains-Germain, were climbing nearby. In Episode 46 of the Sharp End, Margie and Leslie (both expert climbers) explain how this group worked together to execute a fast and effective self-rescue. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Sherrie Trecker and a friend had just finished climbing a classic route on Cutthroat Peak in the North Cascades. It was a gorgeous day, and the descent started smoothly. But when they reached the snowy couloir leading down to the foot of the peak, it was much icier than expected. A slip led to sliding fall, and the snow was too hard for self-arrest. Sherrie slid hard into the rocks below. She was lucky and suffered relatively minor physical injuries from her long fall. But the psychological effects of the accident lingered for over a year. Episode 45 of the Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Suunto and the Colorado Outward Bound School. This show is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Dr. Leslie Drapiza had carefully planned a winter hike of Oregon's Mt. Defiance on Superbowl Sunday, expecting the 12-mile round trip to go as smoothly as her previous training climbs. But when she got off-route during the descent, one bad thing led to another. By the time she was rescued, Leslie had spent two nights out in the cold and snow. In episode 44 of the Sharp End, Leslie tells her story: how she got stranded, how she survived, and how she dealt with incident in the weeks and months that followed. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Suunto and Colorado Outward Bound School. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Andrew Smith from Texas dreamed of climbing big walls in Yosemite Valley. He had learned to climb traditional routes with an experienced mentor and had practiced aid climbing in a specially equipped gym. When he decided to try his first outdoor aid climb, he chose the nearby Wichita Mountains in Oklahoma. But things did not go as smoothly as he'd hoped. Andrew fell near the top of his climb, pulled out multiple pieces of protection, and nearly hit the ground. In episode 43 of the Sharp End, Andrew and Ashley talk through his preparation, the fateful climb, and what went wrong that day. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional sponsorship from Suunto and the Colorado Outward Bound School. This episode received additional support from Matador Adventure Travel Gear and Tribe Alpha. The Sharp End podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.